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Trigger warning: mentions of physical and/or sexual abuse, and gender based violence.
We started off our day by leaving the International Language and Confucius Center at Kenyatta University (ILCC) and going back to the Kenyatta University (KU) BSCC for breakfast, as we have for the last two days. Today we tried lime with our beef samosas, which was delicious (tamu). After breakfast, we headed down to the Kenyatta University Women’s Economic Empowerment Hub, otherwise known as KU-WEE. The mission of the KU-WEE is to “generate robust evidence to inform women’s economic empowerment policies and programmes” at the university and beyond. We met with Dr. Judith Waudo (Professor of Nutrition and Leader of KU-WEE Hub) and Dr. Margaret Keraka (Professor of Environmental and Occupational Health), who gave us a short presentation on the formation and goals of KU-WEE, and on how physical and sexual abuse are handled and thought of in Kenya. We learned that in Kenya, it is common, especially in the older generation, for people to believe that women should be submissive to their husbands, and thus to sometimes excuse and even encourage husbands to discipline and physically abuse their wives. One exemplary phrase we heard was, “If your husband does not beat you, he does not love you.” However, we learned that this perspective is becoming increasingly unpopular and is no longer shared by most people. (Good news.)
We also learned about female genital mutilation, which is currently outlawed in Kenya but still practiced in certain parts of the country, usually in small villages and in secret. While it is largely uncommon, especially in Nairobi, about 21% of women in Kenya have been victims of female genital mutilation. Before leaving for Kenyatta University’s primary school, we discussed the differences between how sexual assault cases are managed in the U.S. versus in Kenya, and came to the conclusion that they are easier to handle within universities than within the actual justice system in both cases.
We spent our afternoon visiting the KU Primary School, which is on the KU campus. We were greeted by a class of students taught by Teacher June. The student’s ages ranged from 13 to 16 years old, with many of them completing their final year before secondary school. We were welcomed with a song created by Dr. B's (Prof Mwende's!) husband, which Dr. Irene had sent ahead to the kids:
Nawa, nawa, nawa mikono yako
Sabuni na maji, kila siku leo
Nawa, nawa, vijidudu watakimbia mbio
Mikono safi, afya njema, hii ni njia yetu
Wash, wash, wash your hands
Soap and water, every day today
Wash, wash, germs will run away
Clean hands, good health, this is our way
The Hollins students were given this song the night before, while the primary school students were taught this song ten minutes before we arrived. However, the students put us to shame by memorizing the whole song in mere minutes, while most Hollins students knew only the first three words. We met the kids outside and then moved inside to continue introductions and conversations about water and sanitation practices. Hollins students were asked about the importance of washing hands, as well as other healthy practices to keep clean. Hazel brought up the COVID-19 pandemic, while Bagby addressed living in a dorm with a roommate in close quarters, leading to more illnesses being spread. Izzy talked about the importance of staying healthy so as not to spread sickness to teammates and miss sports team practices or games, while Kyra discussed that illness can lead to an increased amount of absences, which could impact your academics.
The students listened carefully and then came up with their own answers, ranging from the fact that water is life to staying hydrated. We discovered through conversation that generally, the people in Nairobi wash their hands significantly more than the average American. Most students informed us that they wash their hands 15-25 times a day. Following our interactive discussion about the importance of sanitary practices, like washing hands, we moved outside to a hand-washing station. Here, we had the kids get their hands dirty. Kenya dig it? Get it? (Pun courtesy of Dr. B). We were able to interact with the students more. Many of the students came to the conclusion that Bagby and Kyra must be sisters, because they look so alike. Melanie, Madison, and Izzy had many students touch their hair and ask why it was different. Some students thought Hazel’s hair was naturally purple and noted the fact that she was “palm colored.” Some Hollins students were asked why they were missing the top layer of their skin. Bagby was asked why her pupils were different, so she explained the differences between the iris and pupil, and how, depending on where you live, your irises may be a different color to help adjust to the light.
After washing their hands, students were given Jolly Ranchers, an American candy that is not available in Kenya. The students liked the candy, and Dr. Irene said we needed to get her more. It took a long time to make our way back to the bus, as many hugs and high fives were exchanged between Hollins students and the KU Primary School students.
Note: In the interest of protecting the children’s privacy, we have elected to limit the use of pictures that show the students’ faces. This is why you see many close-ups or pictures from behind, and fewer pictures overall.
After handwashing at the primary school, we made our way to lunch at the Kenyatta University Conference Center, or the KUCC. We, of course, made sure to wash our hands again before lunch. We were greeted by an adorable fuzzy friend and his sister, who came up to us hoping to share our meal. So far, we have seen at least 1-2 stray cats every day, but this is the first we were able to pet.
After lunch, we headed outside to the Matatu, a bus for hire which would take us into Nairobi to revisit the Maasai Market, and cross some things off our shopping lists… The Matatus in Nairobi are very different from American buses. First, they are not city buses; they are private buses. Secondly, they are decorated on the outside. We have seen many buses with the faces of Tupac, Beyonce, Snoop Dog, some Disney movie references, and some that have many bible quotes and images of Jesus. We learned from Palesa that different buses are advertised towards different demographics of people. For instance, many of the very colorful buses with images of pop stars are for young adults or teenagers and typically have LED lights on the inside and play loud Afro-beats music or club music, while the more subdued buses with religious imagery might be marketed towards older people and would be a much quieter experience. On the way to the Maasai Market, we listened to Afro-beats, Kenyan hip hop, and sang with Palesa and Nancy, our host students from Kenyatta University. The bass was so loud that it vibrated our bodies.
This market experience was very different from our experience earlier in the week. The Maasai Market occurs daily but moves to a different location each day. Today, it was set up outside the mall. We felt much more experienced, and most students knew exactly what they wanted. Many of us, especially Madison and Ny’Ree, were showing off our bargaining skills to ensure the lowest price. Once people know you are American, they assume you have money and try to get you to pay higher prices. Never underestimate the power of threatening to walk away. And always, always, be on team Carol.
After the market, we walked into the mall to get take-away (to go) for dinner. Some of us got Indian food, while others revisited the beloved Java House (a coffee shop that serves food and treats). While we waited for the food, many students went to the supermarket. Do not make the mistake of calling it a store because it is not used in Kenya. Here, a store is called "supermarket." Once our food was secured and shopping was completed, we made our way back to the matatu. Due to traffic, our ride back to the ILCC took an hour and a half, with one car accident witnessed. After a long ride full of Megan Thee Stallion and Afro-beats, we made it back to our accommodation at the ILCC for a cozy night in.
Everyone wants a good night's sleep for what’s in store tomorrow night…
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