Day Fifteen

Our morning started off with pineapple-mint and watermelon juices with waffles, omelets, and an assortment of protein for breakfast. We began with a trip to the Mama Ngina Waterfront Park. Students explored various market stalls filled with seashells, wooden ships, necklaces, handmade beaded bracelets and anklets, and spiced dried mango and ice cream. Dr. B, Jalloh, & Jane (a staff member of Northcoast Beach Hotel, NCBH) took a ferry ride from North to South Mombasa to catch a breeze on the water and get a glimpse of the ocean scenery.

Once we finished, we made our way to Fort Jesus, a UNESCO World Heritage Site that reflects the governmental changes and innovations of military and weapons technology between the 15th and 19th centuries. We were led by our tour guide, Bernard, who gave us an extensive historical overview of the site, commencing with its construction by the Portuguese. In the process of securing trade routes along the Indian Ocean, the colonizing empire had spent the last century dominating and conquering the East African landscapes (physically, culturally, and politically). Fort Jesus was constructed to secure the Portuguese’s safety and economic position on the African continent. The Portuguese regarded themselves as representatives of Christendom, sailing under the flag of Christ— hence the name of the site. Eventually, the British, who were previously barred from trading in the area, converted it into a prison through the help of the Mazrui clan, who also sought influence in Mombasa. The British eventually ousted the Mazrui and used Fort Jesus and Mombasa as a key port for trade and the establishment of the East Africa Protectorate (eventually called the Colony and Protectorate of Kenya). We were in awe at the walls of the fort, dug below sea level and therefore made of coral. Interior parts displayed etchings in carbon black and red oxide made by unknown soldiers and sailors who were stationed in the Fort in the early 17th century. We took pictures of the canons and from the turrets (lookout towers) of ourselves and the ocean.

Following the tour of the Fort, half the group took a stroll around Old Town Mombasa. We stopped by a fish market where we tried salted, fried shrimp, and saw men processing different seafood. Afterwards we stopped by a local curio shop to purchase some apparel, ending our excursion with a short tuktuk (auto rickshaw) ride back to Fort Jesus, where we ate a packed lunch. We then went to another local market packed with a multitude of spices, fruits, and other foods. We didn’t stay too long due to the heat and overstimulation of crowded vendors and goods.

The last stop was the Nyali Center, where we would relax with iced coffee, cake, and milkshakes. But on the way, one of our two (air conditioned!!) vans had a brush with police corruption. The driver was stopped for supposedly blocking the flow of traffic (untrue). Those of us new to Kenya were quite surprised, because the traffic is always chaotic with little respect for the rules of the road. The driver was threatened with booking and a large fine, but Dr. Nawiri and the driver had an extended conversation with the officers in which they bargained for his release and only a 1500 Kenyan Shillings (about $10) fine (down from a lot more!). Although the police are blatant about pulling people over, our driver was not allowed to exchange money in the open; he had to go elsewhere to hand over his “fine.” We were told this is a very common practice in Kenya, and the fines can be very high for alleged traffic violations. We know different parts of Africa and South America can also experience such police bribery.

Once at the Nyali Center, and after our coffee break, most of us purchased swimsuits, bucket hats, and other clothing items, while the faculty strolled and chatted, before returning to NCBH for the evening. Most of the students, upon returning to the hotel, took a stroll on the beach and swam at the hotel pool until dinner. Dr. Jalloh joined in a friendly water polo game with other hotel guests. Dinner included salad,  pumpkin and chicken noodle soups, okra curry, beef stirfry, roast chicken, tuna, naan, and more. The remaining hours of the evening were spent playing darts and ping pong until midnight.